Alexander McQueen is a visionary whose shows were a true artistic spectacle. It was not a presentation of clothes, but of ideas for which the designs created were a way of expressing the sensitivity and artistic soul of an exceptional designer. What direction is the Alexander McQueen brand heading in? after the tragic death of a visionary and artist? Did the current changes in the position of creative director and the latest collection by Seán McGirr, debuting under the McQueen fashion house banner, emerge victorious after facing off against the legend?
What direction is the Alexander McQueen brand heading in?
After 14 years since McQueen’s death, his artistic legacy, shocking and taboo-breaking collections, shows like theatre performances still stir up many emotions. They remain unforgettable not only in the world of fashion. The genius has passed away, but the fashion house still exists. 14 years are many twists and turns and inspirations, deconstructions of McQueen’s style and reinterpretations.
The fashion house’s latest show sparked controversy and reignited the discussion about the direction the Alexander McQueen brand is heading. What do the latest designs look like and why is the reception to the models so mixed?
Sean McGirra at the helm of the McQueen fashion house
What direction is the Alexander McQueen brand heading in after the change of chief designer? McGirr promised to refresh the brand and bring back its youthful, rebellious spirit. But his debut collection for the fall/winter season 2024 stirred up a storm of controversy, eliciting mixed reactions from both fans and critics of the brand.
Reference to heritage
McGirr’s show began with a tribute to McQueen’s classic “The Birds” collection, a symbolic gesture of respect for the brand’s previous leadership. But McGirr went further, interpreting the motif in a new way, introducing his own accents and interpretations into the collection.
McGirr drew inspiration from the 90s atmosphere, referencing icons of the decade such as Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse. He wanted to capture the spirit of the period, exploring themes of raw glamour and tainted opulence, which gave the collection a distinct, compelling energy.
McGirr’s collection stands out through contrasts and unusual combinations. The ties around skinny jeans versus bursts of knits that look like fur under classic coats are an innovative combination. The designer boldly broke conventions, creating clothes that exude an extraordinary personality and a fresh approach to fashion.
Rebellion and deformation instead of a spark in the darkness
Unlike McQueen, who was able to combine rebellion with hope, McGirr focused mainly on the dark aspects of human existence. There is no promise of a better tomorrow in his collection. This made the collection look more like a manifestation of hopelessness than an expression of creative protest. Importantly, however, a certain theatricality, currently the domain of Maison Margiela, remained. Thanks to this, the discussion does not revolve around individual McGirr projects, but around the whole as a manifestation of an idea, a worldview. This can be seen as a small victory and a worthy follow in the path set by a brilliant designer.
Provocation as a form of artistic expression
Critics criticized McGirr for being too provocative at the expense of subtlety and beauty. Elements like oversized turtlenecks and restrictive latex dresses could be seen as overly cartoonish and lacking elegance. There was also a lack of finesse in the details that were characteristic of the brand’s heritage. The lack of meticulous perfection in the attention to detail is a serious criticism.
Where to now?
Seán McGirr’s collection for Alexander McQueen has sparked a storm of reactions, drawing attention for its dark atmosphere and outright rebellion. What direction is the Alexander McQueen brand heading in and will McGirr get a second chance to cement his place in the fashion world? Wasn’t the controversial nature of the designs his chance to mark the change that had taken place? Finally, isn’t cultivating the tradition of shows as an idea and stirring up discussion and controversy the best tribute that can be paid to the great Alexander McQueen? Despite continuing McQueen’s legacy, McGirr clearly paves new paths for the future development of the brand, bringing modernity and expressiveness to it.
After all, he himself, when he was in charge of the brand, regularly stirred up controversy. His designs were just as often considered beautiful as they were considered deforming and simply ugly.