There was a unique energy in the air four days ago during Paris Couture Week, when Maison Margiela took its guests on a journey through the boundaries of convention and imagination. Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 was an event we had been waiting for impatiently. With the clear conviction that John Galliano had prepared something extraordinary, something that would take us beyond the boundaries of what was previously known in the world of fashion.
On a misty, rainy evening, under the majestic Pont Alexandre III bridge, a story that has already become legend took place. Garbage strewn around, broken plates, empty cups – all this created the backdrop for the unique spectacle that was about to unfold. It wasn’t just a fashion show, but an act of genius that invaded the world of the everyday, transforming it into something extraordinary. It was also the first time since 2020 that the brand presented itself on the haute couture schedule. And it was worth the wait!
A visionary legacy
The legendary founder of the fashion house Martin Margiela known for his bold experiments with the form and structure of clothes, he often used deconstruction and reuse of materials. His designs often provoked reflection on the definition of beauty and luxury in fashion, challenging the conventions of the fashion industry. His successor since 2014 is John Galliano, the creator of this extraordinary fashion spectacle, which we experienced thoroughly a few days ago.
The British designer rose to fame as creative director of the Dior fashion house before joining Maison Margiela. His designs are often characterised theatrical and extravagant aesthetics, combined with a deep understanding of tailoring craftsmanship and an experimental approach to fabrics and colors. Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 was definitely a return to these principals. There was a sense of drama in every aspect, from music to film to theatrical runway performances, as well as the clothes themselves.
Nevertheless, the collection was a subtle commentary on the idea of transforming beauty and the limits to which people will go to transform themselves. The transition from raw elegance to a dark, damaged aesthetic and then back to a youthful, almost doll-like look was a major theme. The show notes called it “doll accents” and “coquettish expressions with illustrative shoulder lines”, which fit into the Galliano universe.
What delighted us about the Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 show?
The collection began with a reinterpretation of Art Nouveau and Victorian dresses. However, it quickly evolved towards more abstract shapes, suggesting body modifications and prosthetics. The fabrics used by the designer were worn, almost faded, with a touch of surreal fantasy. Semi-transparent dresses in blurred, colorful shades quickly appeared, revealing corsets underneath. At that time, the models’ silhouettes were covered only by layers of light fabric.
There was also contrast in the dark suits, and some models looked as if they had just walked through a wall of rain. In the background, guests sipped cocktails, the sound of a downpour emanated from the speakers, and lightning flashed in the room. One model held a distorted umbrella. Black button-ups were structured and stylized, while a series of doll-like models ruled the runway. Gailliano also used a very interesting performative device. True to his vision, the models broke the visual barrier between themselves and the audience and looked viewers straight in the eye.
“Fashion for the modern times”
Apart from the breathtaking creations, the technical tricks used in the Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 collection are also worthy of attention. Galliano developed this collection for 12 months, exploring new techniques of sewing, draping and embellishment. Pieces that seemed heavy and jagged, but were actually as light as a feather, were constructed using an advanced milletrage technique. In addition, the models worked with a movement director Pat Bogusławski to perfectly master the “broken doll” walk.
Makeup also played a key role in telling Galliano’s story. Renowned makeup artist Pat McGrath, whose collaboration with the designer dates back to his time at Dior, transformed models into porcelain dolls by painting their eyes and lips with pastel colors. Taking the look to the next level was hyperrealistic skin that glowed as if it had been polished. Internet users are flooding the media with speculation about how McGrath could have achieved the surreal effect, helping the show—and its makeup—go viral.
The Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 show not only stirred tangible emotions, but also aroused interest on a level that went beyond aesthetics. It was undoubtedly one of the best events of the year, an event that changed our perception of haute couture. It was an experience that will leave indelible marks in our memories, reminding us that the limits of possibilities are only in our minds.