Imagine this moment. The curtain rises, spotlights illuminate the runway, and in the front row sit fashion critics from around the world. It’s October 14, 2025—the first show of Maria Grazia Chiuri as creative director of Fendi after her return. The question lingers in the air: is this story coming full circle?
The full circle of creativity
Chiuri returns home after years spent in other fashion houses. This isn’t just a typical move between brands. It’s a true homecoming, a return to the roots, to the place where it all began. Some call it a sentimental decision, others—a masterful strategic move.
“It is a tremendous honor and joy for me to return to the place that shaped me as a designer” —said Chiuri in LVMH’s official statement. These words sound sincere, but are they enough to convince the skeptics?
It’s hardly surprising that some people have doubts. After all, fashion is a business, not a nostalgia club. But perhaps that’s exactly where the brilliance of this move lies—a blend of emotion and pragmatism.
This story has three main threads worth following. The first is, of course, the story itself—how a young designer from Rome ended up at Fendi and what made her decide to return after all these years. The second is strategy—what this comeback means for the brand and the entire LVMH group. The third thread is the future—what plans Chiuri has and whether she’ll succeed in reviving the legend.
Each of these topics deserves a separate analysis. Yet they’re all connected by common questions about authenticity, heritage, and whether happy endings are possible in fashion.
Let’s now take a closer look at the beginnings of this fascinating tale.
Career roots and Italian heritage
When a young Maria Grazia Chiuri walked through the doors of the Fendi fashion house in 1989, it was hard to predict just how profoundly this experience would shape her design DNA. Under the watchful eyes of the five Fendi sisters—Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda—she began a true apprenticeship in craftsmanship.
The first years were all about hard work. Learning to sew furs and work with leather under the sisters’ strict supervision left no room for mistakes. Every seam had to be flawless, every cut deliberate.
Key milestones in her development during this period:
• 15.06.1989 – started her internship in the design department
• 12.03.1992 – first encounter with the Selleria line and saddlery techniques
• 08.11.1995 – promoted to assistant designer
• 22.01.1998 – specialized in leather accessories
It was her work on the Selleria line that proved to be a turning point. The Fendi sisters paid attention to every detail of this prestigious line of handbags —from the choice of leather to the finish of every seam. Chiuri spent hours perfecting saddlery techniques, which later became the foundation of her aesthetic.
Ten years at Fendi were a true school of life. The Italian heritage of a family-run company, where tradition met innovation, left a lasting mark on her design sensibility. The skills she gained—precision in working with leather, respect for craftsmanship, an understanding of luxury—have stayed with her forever.
Now it’s time for a vision of the future and a new chapter in the story of this legendary fashion house.
A new beginning – Chiuri’s vision for Fendi
Actually, I was wondering if anyone was even waiting for this announcement. But when on October 14, 2025, LVMH released a statement about Chiuri’s promotion to CCO of Fendi, there was definitely something significant about it. “The new creative leadership will continue the brand’s legacy while introducing a fresh perspective,” the official statement read.
Alright, but what does this actually mean? The vision of the new creative director is based on three key principles:
| Assumption | Description | Goal |
|---|---|---|
| The legacy | Combining traditional craftsmanship with modernity | Preserving the brand’s DNA |
| Feminist aesthetics | Strengthening the female perspective in projects | A new interpretation of luxury |
| Sustainability | A responsible approach to production | A forward-thinking vision of fashion |
The debut is set to take place during Milan Fashion Week, when the Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection will be unveiled. The date has not yet been confirmed, but all signs point to February 2026.
One might wonder if this isn’t too many changes at once. On the one hand, Selleria is the very foundation of Fendi—this leather tradition we’ve known for decades. On the other hand, perhaps it really did take someone who could blend all of this with something new.
We move forward with this vision, though it will probably be a few months before we know how it all played out in practice.
Visions of Tomorrow – What’s Next for Fendi
Chiuri faces some truly exciting challenges at Fendi. In fact, it’s already clear that she has to strike a balance between tradition and what’s happening in fashion right now.
I believe there are three things she should focus on in the near future:
- Sustainability—it’s no longer an option, but a necessity. Customers simply expect it, especially the younger generation. Materials, production processes, the entire supply chain.
- Digital expansion – this is an area where Fendi still has a lot of ground to cover. Social media, e-commerce, maybe some AR or VR experiences. All of this needs to be consistent with the brand’s DNA.
- New collaborations—but thoughtful ones, not forced. Maybe with artists, architects, even tech brands. Just don’t overdo it.
As for the numbers – forecasts predict a 12% increase in sales for 2026. That’s quite optimistic, considering the current situation in the luxury market.
Fendi Sales Growth Forecast
2024: ████ (base)
2025: ██████ (+6%)
2026: ████████ (+12%)
Actually, it will be fascinating to watch how Chiuri handles all of this. It’s worth keeping an eye on her first collections and advertising campaigns. There will probably be some hints about the direction she wants to take the brand.
I also think it’s important to pay attention to whom she chooses to collaborate with—photographers, models, locations. All of this will shape Fendi’s new identity under her leadership.
Overall, it’s an interesting situation. Fendi isn’t a brand that needs saving, but it definitely needs a fresh perspective. Chiuri has experience from Dior and knows how things work in practice. We’ll see if she can bring that knowledge into the Italian context.