An overflowing closet and still nothing to wear — it’s no longer just a meme joke, but a diagnosis of the fast fashion world. Every year, we globally discard about 92 million tons of textiles, and in Poland alone — according to Eurostat data — each resident generates an average of 15 kg of clothing waste per year. We buy impulsively, wear things a few times, and throw them away. And more and more often, we feel that something isn’t right.
Premiumization in fashion – why is mass-market no longer enough for us?
The problem doesn’t end with an overflowing trash bin. The fashion industry is responsible for 8-10% of global CO₂ emissions —more than aviation and maritime transport combined. Producing a single cotton T-shirt uses about 2,700 liters of water. These are figures that are hard to ignore when the climate crisis is being discussed outside your window. And while buying cheap may seem worthwhile, social media is starting to show the other end of the chain—piles of clothes in landfills in Chile or Ghana.
Data from Poland confirms this: according to a 2023 KPMG report, the share of fast fashion in Polish shopping dropped by 12 percentage points compared to 2019. Meanwhile, second-hand is gaining strength, and 64% of consumers declare an interest in sustainable fashion. This is not just a “trendy topic”—it’s a real shift.
Against this backdrop, premiumization in fashion is emerging—a response to fatigue with cheapness and growing awareness of the costs of mass production. What exactly does this mean? More on that in a moment.
What is premiumization in fashion and how does it differ from fast fashion
Before we started talking about premiumization in fashion, a simple rule prevailed: the cheapest, the fastest, the most. Fast fashion taught us that a blouse can cost less than a coffee, and you get a new collection every two weeks. But more and more brands are moving away from this model. Why?
Premiumization – definition and key principles
Premiumization in fashion is a strategic shift from mass, low-cost production to offering products of higher quality and value. The idea is for the customer to pay more—but also to receive more. Better materials (natural fibers instead of polyester), smaller production runs (avoiding overproduction), a better shopping experience (storytelling, personalization, after-sales service). Premiumization doesn’t mean only haute couture costing tens of thousands. It also includes so-called mass premium —brands accessible to the middle class that focus on quality rather than price.
Fast fashion, mass premium, and luxury – where are the boundaries?
The easiest way to see this is in comparison:
| Feature | Fast fashion | Premium/Mass premium | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| Materials | Synthetics, blends | Natural fibers, better fabrics | Exclusive materials (silk, cashmere) |
| Prices | 20-100 PLN | 200-800 PLN | 2000 PLN+ |
| Margins | 10-20% | 40-60% | 60-80%+ |
| Scale of production | Millions of units annually | Thousands–tens of thousands | Setki (limited edition) |
| Customer experience | Minimal, transactional | Storytelling, service | Full customization |
The difference in margins is key: fast fashion profits from volume and low costs, while premium relies on added value and emotions. For you as a customer, this means a higher price, but also a product that will last longer than just one season.
How did we reach the point where premiumization became the answer to the fast fashion crisis? It’s worth looking at the history of the past twenty years.
From fast fashion to conscious quality – a brief history of change
The 90s were essentially the “golden era” of accessibility—Zara, H&M, and the like made fashion something democratic, available to the masses. Who would have expected back then that this revolution would end with a sudden shift in the opposite direction?
The explosion of fast fashion: how the revolution began
The 1980s and 1990s brought something entirely new — the globalization of production and mass offshoring to Asia. Suddenly, the cycle from design to store was shortened from months to weeks. Cheap labor, compressed supply chains, micro-seasonality — fashion was no longer a privilege, it became everyone’s right. For the consumer, it sounded perfect: a new look every week for next to nothing.
Disasters and reports that halted the fascination with mass production
The first warning signs appeared in the 2000s. Reports of worker exploitation, mountains of textile waste, growing environmental awareness. The real turning point? April 24, 2013 – the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, with over 1,100 fatalities. This triggered a wave of criticism and gave momentum to the slow fashion movement. In Poland, the report “Fashion Industry – Economic Significance” (2017) signaled the need to move away from mass production towards value.
From the democratization of luxury to conscious premiumization
In the years 2010-2020, luxury conglomerates (LVMH, Kering) began to focus on eco-luxury —Stella McCartney is a good example. The 2020 pandemic, inflation, the war in Ukraine (2022)—subsequent crises accelerated the shift towards quality over quantity. Campaigns, reports, consumer awareness—all of this pushed the market towards premiumization. Today, we are entering an era where quality and responsibility prevail over cheap mass production.
Premiumization drivers: money, values, and climate
Fast fashion has filled wardrobes to the brim, but something has changed. Margins have dropped, consumers have grown tired of disposable polyester sweaters, and the EU has tightened regulations. The question is: why is it that right now all forces have pushed the industry toward premium?
Why premium pays off: the economics of new fashion
The market has become saturated with cheap clothes to the limit. Fast fashion margins have shrunk to 20-30%, while the premium segment comfortably maintains 60-70%. Simple math — selling less, but for more, suddenly started to make business sense. Especially when consumers themselves have shown a willingness to pay for quality, rather than yet another cheap item from Shein.
From consumerism to conscious choices
People have grown tired. Capsule wardrobe, quiet luxury, buying less but better — these aren’t influencer whims, but a mass trend. Gen Z prefers unique pieces over flashy Zara knockoffs. Especially when everyone is wearing the same thing from TikTok hauls. Fashion has become a tool for expressing values, not just style.
Ecology, regulations, and technology as catalysts for change
Fashion is responsible for 2.1 billion tons of CO₂ emissions annually and 92 million tons of textile waste. The EU is responding: sustainability labels, the Digital Services Act making life harder for Shein and Temu in Europe. At the same time, AI is personalizing premium offers, blockchain is tracking the supply chain, and metaverse fashion is opening new sales channels. Technology not only justifies higher prices—it actually enables the circular model and transparency that the market demands.
Now brands must translate these forces into concrete products and strategies. Mere awareness of trends is not enough.
How brands implement premiumization in practice
Premiumization is not just about “more expensive,” but above all “different”—and this is evident in every aspect, from the raw material to what happens to the garment after five years of wear. Brands that want to break free from the trap of mass production are changing their products, services, and entire business models. And it really shows.
Materials, collections, and premium-focused design
In fast fashion, it was all about cheap synthetic fabrics, a short life cycle (1-2 seasons), and overproduction—the margin was in the scale. Today, premium brands focus on natural fibers certified by GOTS, OEKO‑TEX, or Cradle to Cradle, design collections for 5-10 years of use, and drastically limit production runs to avoid excess. Patagonia repairs sold jackets free of charge, Gucci Vault combines new collections with resale—this isn’t PR, it’s a business model.
Customer experience: from storytelling to free repairs
Premium is also about relationships. Brands tell the story of each collection, offer personalization (initials, tailored fit), repair services, and buy-back of used clothing. Balenciaga has launched resale, H&M is piloting premium rentals in several cities, and Vinted Premium is testing second-hand with a curated selection. In Poland, LPP is closing cheaper Reserved stores and opening Mohito Premium flagships, while local brands like Risk Made in Warsaw, Elementy, and Kryspin are building their position on quality and storytelling, and Zara is focusing on fewer stores, but larger and more experience-oriented ones. Circular models—rental, resale—are no longer experiments and are becoming a permanent part of the premium offering.
The Polish fashion market in premium mode
Poland is no longer trailing at the end of the fashion caravan—in fact, it is clearly aligning itself with the global shift toward quality and awareness. What just a few years ago seemed like a niche is now transforming into a visible market trend, with figures and names worth knowing.
What the numbers say: fast fashion is losing, second-hand is gaining
The share of fast fashion in the Polish consumer basket is shrinking—from around 68% in 2019 to an estimated 52% by the end of 2024. At the same time, the second-hand market is growing by an average of 15-18% annually, and the sustainable fashion segment (eco materials, premium resale) is recording double-digit increases. In 2023, the clothing industry in Poland generated approximately PLN 38 billion in revenue—experts predict that in 2025 this value will exceed PLN 42 billion, mainly thanks to premiumization and more expensive categories.
| Indicator | 2019 | 2025 (forecast) |
|---|---|---|
| The share of fast fashion in sales | 68% | 52% |
| Percentage of “eco” buyers | 22% | 41% |
| Second-hand market (y/y growth) | +8% | +18% |
Polish consumer: between quality and wallet
Ecological awareness is growing – research by UNGC Polska shows that over 60% of Poles declare their willingness to pay more for transparently produced clothing. In practice, however, the price barrier still divides the market: premium is the domain of big city residents and the middle class, while the rest turn to sales and second-hand options.
LPP, Inditex and local players
LPP SA (Reserved, Mohito, Sinsay) introduces eco-friendly lines and raises prices of flagship collections, Zara is testing resale and subscription in Poland, and Vinted has launched the Vinted Premium segment. The export of Polish premium fashion to Scandinavia is also increasing – local brands like Bizuu or Nanushka (although Hungarian, popular in PL) are gaining European recognition. Reports and debates are being handled by UŁ, UE Katowice, and UNGC Polska.
But is all of this really just good news?
Shadows of premiumization: exclusion, greenwashing, and risks
Premium sounds beautiful – and certainly better than “cheap and mass-produced.” But does every instance of a brand putting its T-shirts in elegant boxes and raising the price by 40% really mean we’re taking a step toward better fashion? Not quite. Because premiumization also has a darker side: price exclusion, false ecological promises, and real social consequences that are rarely discussed on brand websites.
When premium becomes luxury for the chosen few
Higher prices can exclude ordinary consumers, especially young people and those with average incomes. On Polish social media, discussions like “I miss the quality, but I can’t afford these new collections” or “I bought it in installments because I wanted something more durable” are becoming increasingly common. Aspirational consumption leads to debt—you pay off a blouse for several months because you believe that once bought, it will last for years. The problem is that not every brand actually guarantees this promised durability. The result? Ordinary customers feel excluded from the awareness debate, because “premium eco” sounds like a privilege for the wealthier.
Greenwashing: the falsely green face of fashion
The 2024 European Commission report revealed that over half of fashion brands’ websites contain misleading or even outright false sustainability claims. H&M, despite its “Conscious” campaign, has repeatedly been accused of “greenwashing” products that, in practice, differ little from the rest of its range. Experts point out that premiumization is often an empty marketing slogan—the brand says “premium because eco,” but provides no certificates or transparent supply chain audits. Polish environmental activists are increasingly vocal: the best answer is second-hand and reducing consumption, not blind faith in a new “recycled” collection.
Side effects for employees and Polish customers
If the West limits mass production in favor of more expensive mini-collections, what happens to jobs in Asia that depend on large volumes? Eco-activists are divided: some argue that we need to move toward more humane conditions (even at the cost of job numbers), while others warn of a sharp rise in unemployment in manufacturing countries. In Poland, the discussion shifts to a local context: are LPP and other chains truly becoming premium, or are they just raising prices without any real change in quality? Critical voices emphasize that we should look at the facts—fabrics, seams, origin—not just at flashy packaging.
How to consciously transition from fast fashion to a quality wardrobe
Premiumization may sound luxurious, but in practice, it doesn’t have to mean that from now on you shop only in boutiques. It’s about something simpler — choosing less, but better. And yes, it’s possible to do even on a limited budget if you stop chasing every new arrival from chain stores.
Less, but better: your premium everyday strategy
Start by reviewing your wardrobe. Take everything out and consider what you actually wear—the rest you can donate, sell on Vinted, or repurpose. Next, set your priorities: instead of buying five T-shirts for 20 złoty each, invest once in a single high-quality one for 100 złoty that will last you several seasons. This is exactly what cost per wear means—you calculate the cost for each use. A cheap blouse for 30 złoty that you wear three times ends up costing more than a great sweater for 200 złoty worn over two years.
| Purchase price | Number of uses | Cost per wear |
|---|---|---|
| 30 PLN (cheap blouse) | 3 times | 10 PLN |
| 200 PLN (quality sweater) | 100 times | 2 PLN |
Build a so-called capsule wardrobe —a base of timeless, versatile clothes (e.g., a good coat, classic jeans, a white shirt). Fewer combinations, but each one works.
How to recognize quality and avoid falling for greenwashing
Read the labels. A content of natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool) above 50% is already a good sign. Avoid 100% polyester in everyday clothes—they wear out quickly and are less breathable. Check the seams and finishes: if threads are sticking out or buttons are barely attached, even an eco-friendly label won’t save the item from falling apart.
And watch out for greenwashing—slogans like “eco-collection” without specific certifications (GOTS, Fair Trade, OEKO-TEX) are often just marketing tricks.
Second-hand, rental, and local brands as allies
Vinted, local consignment stores, clothing rentals for special occasions — it’s not just about saving money, but also about a more interesting style. Polish brands produce locally and in small batches — a smaller carbon footprint, greater transparency.
Key habits? Buy less often. Repair instead of throwing away. Ask yourself, “Do I really need this?” And give yourself time — building a quality wardrobe is a marathon, not a sprint.
Where is fashion heading – your role in the future of premiumization
We are at a turning point. What you buy today – or what you don’t buy – truly shapes what the fashion market will look like in five years. This isn’t about more grand promises from the industry, but about specific trends that are already gaining momentum.
Fashion 2030: premium, circularity, and technology
By the end of the decade, you can expect several significant changes:
- The premium segment will take a larger share of the market – analysts estimate a 15-20% increase in total sales share
- Resale and rental will stop being a niche and become the norm (especially among younger generations)
- Circular fashion – repairs, reuse, recycling – will no longer be just a marketing slogan, but the standard
- Technology will play a bigger role: AI for online size matching, 3D printing of made-to-order clothing, blockchain tracking every stage of production
In Poland? You can count on reshoring – more local premium production, an increase in exports of high-quality brands. EU regulations will become increasingly strict towards fast fashion, and consumer awareness is growing faster here than anywhere else in the region.
Your choices today, the fashion market of tomorrow
What can you do right now?
- Set a limit – decide that this year you’ll buy a maximum of 12-15 items, but truly high-quality ones
- Try the second-hand market – buy at least one item used or rent it for a special occasion
- Ask about production – before you buy, check who makes it and where
Brands respond to demand. If you shop consciously, the rest will follow you.
Marky
fashion & lifestyle editor
HCF