Pierpaolo Piccioli is 58 years old and has just reset the game at one of the world’s most demanding fashion houses. On May 19, 2025, Balenciaga announced his appointment as creative director, and the industry held its breath. After 25 years at Valentino (including 8 solo at the top), this designer from Nettuno is back in the game with an entirely new challenge.
Who is Pierpaolo Piccioli and why is his name once again on everyone’s lips in the industry?
Because timing is everything. Balenciaga needed someone who could build a narrative without shouting, and Piccioli has done exactly that throughout his career. His “Pink PP” from 2022 went viral not through provocation, but through emotion, romance tailored to a human scale, and color treated as a manifesto. He is now preparing the SS26 show (October 2025) and FW26 (March 2026), which are set to present Balenciaga in a new light.
What sets him apart? The combination of sculptural forms with an inclusive approach to body and age. He doesn’t design for an imagined muse, but for real people. As he says himself: “fashion is a set of instruments that allow you to say more.” And it seems that at Balenciaga, he will have a whole new set of tools at his disposal.
Career and impact: Fendi and the breakthrough at Valentino
Piccioli began with philosophy at Nettuno University, then switched to Sapienza, and finally graduated from IED in Rome in 1989. His first serious job? Fendi, where he spent the entire 1990s working on accessories. There, he came under the wing of Karl Lagerfeld and the Fendi sisters, which gave him a solid foundation in craftsmanship. And interestingly, it was there that he met Maria Grazia Chiuri, with whom he would later form a creative duo at Valentino for many years.
They both joined Valentino in 1999, initially once again working on accessories. Their promotion came gradually: in 2007, they became creative directors of accessories, and a year later, of the entire fashion house. When Chiuri left for Dior in 2016, Piccioli took the helm alone.
Growth, virals, and awards
And this is where the real numbers began. The Spring/Summer 2011 collection brought “Rockstud,” those iconic studded heels that literally skyrocketed sales above one billion euros.
| Year | Event |
|---|---|
| 1989 | Graduation from IED in Rome |
| 1990-1999 | Fendi, accessories department |
| 1999 | Entrance to Valentino (accessories) |
| 2008 | Co-creative direction with Chiuri |
| 2016 | At the helm alone after Chiuri’s departure |
| 2024 (March) | Departure from Valentino |
Key figures:
- Revenues of approx. €200 million in 2008
- After “Rockstud” (SS11): over €1,000 million
- 2021: €1.36 billion, growth +41% y/y
- Sample show: 48 out of 65 models were Black
“Pink PP” from 2022 was another viral moment, with pink creations shining at the Met Gala and on red carpets. Accolades? CFDA International Award in 2015, British Fashion Awards in 2018 and again in 2022. And the casting, where he deliberately chose Black models, made an impression and sparked a discussion about representation in luxury.
Balenciaga after 2025: aesthetics, collections, and image reset
Piccioli took the helm at Balenciaga on July 10, 2025, although his appointment was announced as early as May 19. His debut SS26 collection, presented in October 2025 at Paris Fashion Week, was a deliberate act of “recalibration.” Instead of a radical break, he returned to the roots: sack-like silhouettes of coats and dresses taken straight from Cristóbal’s 1958 archive, but reinterpreted with contemporary neo-gazar, a light, sculptural fabric. Interestingly, he nodded to Demna’s era with the iconic “bug-eye” sunglasses. He didn’t erase the past, but rather recontextualized it.
FW26: body, light, and technology
The FW26 collection (January–March 2026) went even further toward what the designers themselves called “wellness couture.” The main slogan was: “lightness, flexibility, intelligence.” In practice? Evening gowns ready for the gym, techno-athleisure with unexpected finishes, a capsule in collaboration with the NBA. The ” Heart and Body ” campaign (February 2026, photography: David Sims) focused on bodies in motion, a new roster of ambassadors, and an inclusive narrative. Piccioli called it “Clairobscur,” a play of light and shadow. Some journalists write about the end of streetwear, while others see a humanistic reset after years of controversy.
Fashion as Humanism
Piccioli leaves behind more than just striking campaigns or collections discussed in magazines. It’s the belief that fashion can be a tool for empathy, not just for sales. That pink doesn’t have to pigeonhole, and a haute couture gown can speak of freedom instead of status. This vision shines through every choice, every campaign with real people, every interview where humanity comes before trends.
And that is precisely why his move to Balenciaga sparks such curiosity. Because it’s a vision that changes the way designers think about their role. They don’t just create clothes—they create a space for people to be themselves.
Norbi
lifestyle & people
High